Following-up on 4d2c8b1d (go/zodb: Require drivers to provide
notifications for database change events) let's teach FileStorage to
support watching for database changes:

- add watcher who observes changes to data file via fsnotify.

- when we see that the file was updated - there is a tricky case to distinguish
  in-progress writes from just some garbage added at tail. See comments in
  _watcher for details.

- if the watcher sees there is indeed new transactions, the watcher
  updates index & txnh{Min,Max} and sends corresponding event to watchq.

- since index / txnh{Min,Max} can now be changed (by watcher) -> they
  are now protected by mu.

- consequently operations like LastTid, LastOid, Load, ... are all taught to
  observe index / txnh{Min,Max} state in read-snapshot way.

- add down & friends to indicate that the storage is no longer
  operational, if watcher sees there is a problem with data file.

- Open is reworked to start from loading/rebuilding index first, and then tail
  to watcher to detect whether what's after found topPos is garbage or another
  in-progress transaction. Consequently it is now possible to correctly open
  filestorage that is being currently written to and has in-progress transaction
  at tail.

The patch is a bit big, but the changes here are all tightly
interrelated.