Page tables in a read-only memory slot will currently cause a triple
fault because the page walker uses gfn_to_hva and it fails on such a slot.

OVMF uses such a page table; however, real hardware seems to be fine with
that as long as the accessed/dirty bits are set.  Save whether the slot
is readonly, and later check it when updating the accessed and dirty bits.
Reviewed-by: Xiao Guangrong <xiaoguangrong@linux.vnet.ibm.com>
Reviewed-by: Gleb Natapov <gleb@redhat.com>
Signed-off-by: Paolo Bonzini <pbonzini@redhat.com>